Zingerman’s isn’t always the first stop on my Kerrytown and Farmer’s Market Tour, but that’s the way I arranged it last Wednesday for 13 great women from the Detroit suburbs.
The tour started at 11, a good time to avoid lines and crowds at the deli and to share two of my favorites — lukschen (noodle) kugel and Stewart’s Farmer’s Hash—both warm, sweet and spicy and great tastes to start the tour.
Zingerman’s noodle kugel is made with Al Dente pasta, my favorite, and made just up the street in Whitmore Lake by an Ann Arbor family. They have such great flavors, it cooks in only 4 minutes and tastes like fresh pasta you made at home. And it makes a delicious noodle kugel. It must if Zingerman’s uses it. I use Al Dente’s wild mushroom pasta in a savory butternut squash and parsnip kugel.
The farmer’s hash luscious combination of sweet potatoes, new potatoes, piquillo peppers, sauteed spinach and crispy onions (served with buttered rye toast and sour cream) melts in your mouth. The women started to moan as they passed around the hash and caught their first whiff.
There are tons of recipes for kugels. Most Jewish families have at least one dairy version of a noodle kugel, usually made with cottage cheese and sour cream, and one without dairy, with cinnamon and raisins (although my mother and husband kindly hold the raisins from half the kugel for me).
I prefer potato kugels, especially now that I am gluten-free, and I promised the women on the tour that I would post my recipe for potato and sweet potato kugel. Both kugels are made with produce currently available at your local farmer’s market.
Let me know how you like them. Both kugels can be made a day or two ahead and re-heated. Some think they’re better that way.
They are both gluten and dairy free.
Potato Kugel – Gluten and Dairy Free
About 6 medium-large russet potatoes, peeled
1 medium-large onion (we like a lot of onion, but use how much you want or none)
3 eggs, slightly beaten
2 T plain cooking oil (canola, grapeseed, safflower, etc.)
salt (kosher or sea salt) and pepper to taste
apple sauce to go with it (or not)
9 X 13 glass (my preference) baking dish
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
You can either hand grate your potatoes and onions or grate them in the food processor, which is what I do. We like ours coarse ground and slightly chunky. You can pulse the machine to the texture you like, but don’t just turn on the processor and let it go because you’ll have mush that will be too runny to be good. Watch it carefully and just use the “pulse” option.
I pulse the onions first and put them in a large bowl, then add the eggs and combine them. This step keeps the potatoes from turning brown as you add them to the bowl.
When pulsing the potatoes, cut them in chunks, and only process an inch or so of chunks at a time to be sure all the potatoes get processed. Don’t put too many potatoes in the processor bowl or you’ll miss some.
Add salt and pepper to taste–and remember you’re seasoning the potatoes, onions and eggs, so use a good, healthy salt and be generous.
This next step is my Grandmother/Mother’s trick for a crispy kugel, our family’s desired outcome. Put the 2 tablespoons of oil in a 9 X13 glass baking dish (If you don’t have glass, don’t sweat it. I like it so I can monitor the browning of the bottom of the kugel—-very important!) and put the dish in the oven for about 5 minutes to heat up the oil. Using an oven mit, take the hot dish out of the oven and mix about one (1) tablespoon of the oil into the potato mixture, then quickly pour it all back into the glass dish and put it back into the oven.
You’re going for a nice sizzle when the batter hits the baking dish, but don’t worry if you don’t get one. It’ll still get crispy and taste great.
Bake the potato kugel for 45-75 minutes, checking often after 45 until it’s as brown as you want it. Bake it as long as you can until it almost burns. I like it with apple sauce.
Sweet Potato, Carrot and Apple Kugel – Gluten and Dairy Free
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled
4 apples—whatever kind you like–peeled and cored/seeded
8 carrots, peeled (or just washed well if organic)
1/2 cup ground almonds, your favorite gluten-free flour (like garbanzo bean or coconut), potato starch (1/3 cup) or, if you can tolerate wheat, white or whole wheat flour or matzo meal
1/2 cup of your favorite cooking oil—I use coconut or grapeseed
1/2 cup brown sugar
4 eggs, slightly beaten
1 teaspoon cinnamon (or more to taste)
freshly grated nutmeg to taste
salt (kosher or sea salt) and pepper to taste
9 X 13 glass (my preference) baking dish
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
You can either hand grate your sweet potatoes, carrots and apples or grate them in the food processor, which is what I do. We like ours coarse ground and slightly chunky. You can pulse the machine to the texture you like, but don’t just turn on the processor and let it go because you’ll have mush that will be too runny to be good. Watch it carefully and just use “pulse.”
When pulsing, cut the veggies and fruit in chunks, and only process an inch or so of chunks at a time to be sure all of them get processed evenly. Don’t put too much in the processor bowl at once or you’ll miss some.
Put all the veggies in a large bowl as they are processed, then add the rest of the ingredients (except for 2 Tablespoons of oil–see trick below) and blend well.
This next stop is my Grandmother/Mother’s trick for a crispy kugel, our family’s desired outcome. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 9 X13 glass baking dish (If you don’t have glass, don’t sweat it. I like it so I can monitor the browning of the bottom of the kugel—-very important!) and put the dish in the oven for about 5 minutes to heat up the oil. Using an oven mit, take the hot dish out of the oven and mix it into the potato mixture, then quickly pour it all back into the glass dish and put it back into the oven.
You’re going for a nice sizzle when the batter hits the baking dish, but don’t worry if you don’t get one. It’ll still get crispy and taste great.
Bake the kugel for 45-75 minutes, checking often after 45 until it’s as brown as you want it. Bake it as long as you can until it almost burns, or at least until it’s cooked through and a toothpick comes out clean.