Why I love Ann Arbor.

There were a lot of reasons I fell in love with Ann Arbor Thanksgiving break, 1974, when I came to visit my brother in grad school here.

First was the food, of course—so many choices!  My hometown had less than 10 places to eat out–total.  Ann Arbor had (and still does) a plethora of choices from all parts of the world, and I was smitten with all of them.  It wasn’t overwhelming like New York—just enough.  Plenty to choose from and most within walking distance.  It’s even better today!  And some of those places my brother first introduced me to are still thriving, like Blimpy Burgers.

Number two—it’s easy to blend in here.  You don’t really stand out unless you want to.  No matter how crazy you can get over something—from organic potatoes to reducing waste—there’s 50 people crazier than you are!  It’s a town filled with causes and passion and innovation and an energy that still feels exciting and comforting at the same time.

Three—you can’t get bored because you never run out of things to do.  Many of them free!

And the biggest reason I love Ann Arbor–corny as it is—-people are genuinely nice and friendly.  They smile at you and say hello even if they don’t know you.  That happened my first day here in 1974 and again on the day I finally moved back to town a few years ago.

I was leading a tour of a group of travel journalists from Hong Kong last week who commented on how friendly and smiling the people are.  Nobody huffed at us as we blocked the sidewalk to look at a fairy door—they just walked around us and smiled.

And people will stop and push a perfect stranger’s car out of the snow, which I saw a lot on that first weekend I fell in love with Ann Arbor.  It felt like a place I could call home.

Still does.  Tell me what you love about Ann Arbor?

Foodie Family

Foodie Family

The women in my family—actually, most of the women in Brownsville, PA (my hometown)—are/were incredible cooks. It’s a small town with a wonderfully diverse, integrated population from Hungary, Poland, Syria and Italy who were attracted to jobs in the coal mines and steel mills.

My Grandma Pearl was Hungarian and a cooking fool! And she cooked by feel and smell and taste, not by recipe. She cooked three meals a day for my Father and Grandfather and anybody else who showed up. There was always plenty and leftovers weren’t only welcome, they were worshiped and protected. She baked at least once a day (my Mother baked at least three times a week). We always had dessert. Always.

My first foodie adventures were at Grandma Pearl’s house. I’d roam around her giant kitchen, peeking under cake covers, looking on the huge tables to see what kind of dough she might be pulling or what still might be warm and maybe gooey and cinnamonny. She’d joyfully cut a piece of anything we wanted. I was lanky and boney and she was happy to “put meat on my bones” with anything. Nobody worried about sugar then. At least not in my family.

She always had long pans filled with apple pie cut into squares so you could eat with your hand. And these light, flaky nut rolls we called puffed dough. And my favorite–buttery pogachels—a sour-cream-dough cookie that tastes like a cross between shortbread and biscuits. When made well, pogachels have layers that gently peel apart. I would always eat the bottom first and work my way up to the crispy, sugary top, savoring every layer.

My Mother eventually started making pogachels with margarine, thinking it was healthier for my Father than butter (which is what she was told), and they were never the same. The recipe I have calls for half margarine/half butter. But I’m only listing butter—the sweetest, creamiest butter you can find!

Pogachels—definitely not gluten-free or vegan—makes about 2-3 dozen

Dough:

8 cups flour

1½ cups sugar

5 heaping teaspoons baking powder

pinch of salt

1 pound of butter (4 sticks) softened

4 egg yolks (reserving 2 whites in separate bowl)

8 ounces sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

juice from ½ orange

1 teaspoon grated orange rind

Topping:

2 egg whites

2 Tablespoons cinnamon

2 teaspoons sugar

1 cup finely chopped nuts (optional)

Mix flour, sugar, baking powder and salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in center of the dry ingredients and add all remaining dough ingredients. Mix well, then turn onto a floured surface and knead dough a couple of times to blend ingredients.

Form into a large ball, wrap in plastic and refrigerate overnight. Next day, when you’re ready to bake them, heat oven to 350º .

Grease and flour (or cover with parchment paper) 2 cookie sheets . Divide dough in half and roll one half until about 1/2” thick. Using a 2” round cookie cutter or drinking glass , cut dough and placed onto the cookie sheets. Repeat until all the dough is gone. Then do the same with the other half of dough.

Mix together cinnamon, sugar and nuts. Lightly beat egg whites and brush on top of cookies, then sprinkle cinnamon mixture on top.

Bake for 25-30 minutes or until cookies are golden brown. They freeze great, but eat them at room temperature, not cold.

All Kinds of Kugel

Zingerman’s isn’t always the first stop on my Kerrytown and Farmer’s Market Tour, but that’s the way I arranged it last Wednesday for 13 great women from the Detroit suburbs.

The tour started at 11, a good time to avoid lines and crowds at the deli and to share  two of my favorites — lukschen (noodle) kugel and Stewart’s Farmer’s Hash—both warm, sweet and spicy and great tastes to start the tour.

Zingerman’s noodle kugel is made with Al Dente pasta, my favorite, and made just up the street in Whitmore Lake by an Ann Arbor family.  They have such great flavors, it cooks in only 4 minutes and tastes like fresh pasta you made at home.  And it makes a delicious noodle kugel.  It must if Zingerman’s uses it.  I use Al Dente’s wild mushroom pasta in a savory butternut squash and parsnip kugel.

The farmer’s hash luscious combination of sweet potatoes, new potatoes, piquillo peppers, sauteed spinach and crispy onions (served with buttered rye toast and sour cream) melts in your mouth.  The women started to moan as they passed around the hash and caught their first whiff.

There are tons of recipes for kugels.  Most Jewish families have at least one dairy version of a noodle kugel, usually made with cottage cheese and sour cream, and one without dairy, with cinnamon and raisins (although my mother and husband kindly hold the raisins from half the kugel for me).

I prefer potato kugels, especially now that I am gluten-free, and I promised the women on the tour that I would post my recipe for potato and sweet potato kugel.  Both kugels are made with produce currently available at your local farmer’s market.

Let me know how you like them.  Both kugels can be made a day or two ahead and re-heated.  Some think they’re better that way.

They are both gluten and dairy free.

Potato Kugel – Gluten and Dairy Free

About 6 medium-large russet potatoes, peeled

1 medium-large onion (we like a lot of onion, but use how much you want or none)

3 eggs, slightly beaten

2 T plain cooking oil (canola, grapeseed, safflower, etc.)

salt (kosher or sea salt) and pepper to taste

apple sauce to go with it (or not)

9 X 13 glass (my preference) baking dish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

You can either hand grate your potatoes and onions or grate them in the food processor, which is what I do.  We like ours coarse ground and slightly chunky.  You can pulse the machine to the texture you like, but don’t just turn on the processor and let it go because you’ll have mush that will be too runny to be good.  Watch it carefully and just use the “pulse” option.

I pulse the onions first and put them in a large bowl, then add the eggs and combine them.  This step keeps the potatoes from turning brown as you add them to the bowl.

When pulsing the potatoes, cut them in chunks, and only process an inch or so of chunks at a time to be sure all the potatoes get processed.  Don’t put too many potatoes in the processor bowl or you’ll miss some.

Add salt and pepper to taste–and remember you’re seasoning the potatoes, onions and eggs, so use a good, healthy salt and be generous.

This next step is my Grandmother/Mother’s trick for a crispy kugel, our family’s desired outcome.  Put the 2 tablespoons of oil in a 9 X13 glass baking dish (If you don’t have glass, don’t sweat it.  I like it so I can monitor the browning of the bottom of the kugel—-very important!) and put the dish in the oven for about 5 minutes to heat up the oil.  Using an oven mit, take the hot dish out of the oven and mix about one (1) tablespoon of the oil into the potato mixture, then quickly pour it all back into the glass dish and put it back into the oven.

You’re going for a nice sizzle when the batter hits the baking dish, but don’t worry if you don’t get one.  It’ll still get crispy and taste great.

Bake the potato kugel for 45-75 minutes, checking often after 45 until it’s as brown as you want it.  Bake it as long as you can until it almost burns.  I like it with apple sauce.

Sweet Potato, Carrot and Apple Kugel – Gluten and Dairy Free

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled

4 apples—whatever kind you like–peeled and cored/seeded

8 carrots, peeled (or just washed well if organic)

1/2 cup ground almonds, your favorite gluten-free flour (like garbanzo bean or coconut), potato starch (1/3 cup) or, if you can tolerate wheat, white or whole wheat flour or matzo meal

1/2 cup of your favorite cooking oil—I use coconut or grapeseed

1/2 cup brown sugar

4 eggs, slightly beaten

1 teaspoon cinnamon (or more to taste)

freshly grated nutmeg to taste

salt (kosher or sea salt) and pepper to taste

9 X 13 glass (my preference) baking dish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

You can either hand grate your sweet potatoes, carrots and apples or grate them in the food processor, which is what I do.  We like ours coarse ground and slightly chunky.  You can pulse the machine to the texture you like, but don’t just turn on the processor and let it go because you’ll have mush that will be too runny to be good.  Watch it carefully and just use “pulse.”

When pulsing, cut the veggies and fruit in chunks, and only process an inch or so of chunks at a time to be sure all of them get processed evenly.  Don’t put too much in the processor bowl at once or you’ll miss some.

Put all the veggies in a large bowl as they are processed, then add the rest of the ingredients (except for 2 Tablespoons of oil–see trick below) and blend well.

This next stop is my Grandmother/Mother’s trick for a crispy kugel, our family’s desired outcome.  Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 9 X13 glass baking dish (If you don’t have glass, don’t sweat it.  I like it so I can monitor the browning of the bottom of the kugel—-very important!) and put the dish in the oven for about 5 minutes to heat up the oil.  Using an oven mit, take the hot dish out of the oven and mix it into the potato mixture, then quickly pour it all back into the glass dish and put it back into the oven.

You’re going for a nice sizzle when the batter hits the baking dish, but don’t worry if you don’t get one.  It’ll still get crispy and taste great.

Bake the kugel for 45-75 minutes, checking often after 45 until it’s as brown as you want it.  Bake it as long as you can until it almost burns, or at least until it’s cooked through and a toothpick comes out clean.

The most beautiful lettuce I’ve ever seen

The most beautiful lettuce I’ve ever seen

Ok, I know it’s just lettuce, but I get really excited about it. And really picky. I’ll admit it, I’m a lettuce snob. I refuse to eat iceberg unless it’s with lettuce wraps, and then I still complain (at least to myself) the whole time. I think they’d taste better, and they would at least have some redeeming nutrition, with clean, crisp, dry romaine or red leaf.

I’m also obsessed with dry greens. I hate wet lettuce. I used to use a salad spinner, but now I just shake the leaves for a few seconds in the colander, then put them in this great green terrycloth bag I bought a few years ago—you can just roll the leaves in a really thick towel. I gently squeeze them once inside the bag to pat them dry, then put them in the fridge until I’m ready.

I will rarely order salads in a restaurant because they’re usually made with bagged lettuce, which is usually old and tasteless. I won’t even make a salad at home these days unless I can get locally-grown lettuce. Lucky for me, that can almost be year round in Michigan since hoophouses arrived , and since there are many people around here more obsessed about greens than I am. One of the things I’ve always loved about Ann Arbor—there’s always lots more people crazier than I am.

We were late getting to the market last week, so I wasn’t sure there was going to be anything left, specifically, the most beautiful lettuce I’ve ever seen that I bought the week before. No photo would ever be able to accurately depict the color and beauty of this lettuce.  I tried.  I know it’s good to have a photo in the blog, but the photo just didn’t do this beautiful lettuce justice.

Joyce Umin, the woman who grows this delicious and nutritious lettuce with her family at Umin Farms in New Boston, calls it red romaine, but it’s more like the color of eggplant , at least on the outside leaves. It’s certainly the most regal lettuce I’ve ever seen. And the price was right, 2 medium heads for $3, or 3 for $5, my choice. It was the end of the day, so Joyce threw in a few more heads, plus some tender broccoli, cauliflower and baby zucchini that I steamed for lunch.

She also had the most beautiful radicchio I’ve ever seen—-a big, green-with-red-tipped-lacey-leafy head of radicchio. I asked her if it was bitter and she didn’t hesitate to tear of a small piece and give me a taste. It was good, but I stuck to my original plan—the beautiful purple lettuce.

Visit Joyce and her family at Stall #95-96-97 at the Saturday Ann Arbor Farmer’s Market. And tell them you read about their gorgeous produce on savorannarbor.com.

I can’t wait to see what Umin Farms has picked for me this week.


Gluten-free Foodie

I never thought I’d be writing about this topic—ever.

I was a very allergic child.  I was told I was allergic to chocolate the week my family was going to Hershey Park.  You can smell chocolate for miles before getting here.  I had  kind parents who figured I could scratch a few more days, and let me eat what I wanted for the rest of the weekend.

By the time I was a teenager, my allergies were mostly gone.  And they stayed away until about 6 years ago when, all of a sudden, I was allergic to most of the foods I loved—-bread, pasta, barley, cheese, pizza!  I resisted giving them all up until I just couldn’t stand scratching any more.

It’s really hard being a foodie with allergies.  I decided to focus on what I can eat instead of what I can’t and refused to stop eating out.  Luckily, many of my favorite places in Ann Arbor have become allergy-friendly.  So, if there aren’t clear mentions of gluten-free options on the menu, at least the staff has been trained to pleasantly try and help you have a great meal without feeling embarrassed or worrying about suffering later.

I’ll start with one of my favorites—before and after allergies–Pilar’s Tamales Shop or Cart.

You can always find Sylvia’s tamale cart at the Ann Arbor Farmer’s Market, and lucky for us, she recently opened an eat-in, permanent shop on Liberty just west of Stadium.  It’s a homey, bright place where you can order homemade delicious (and many of them gluten and dairy free) tamales and papusas, healthy casamiento (black beans and rice) and creamy plantains lovingly made by Sylvia and her family using local, seasonal ingredients (ok, maybe not the plantains) and gluten-free seasonings (e.g., no soy sauce).  Pilar’s also has the most interesting daytime drinks in town, including homemade hibiscus tea and their tasty version of  horchata, the Latin rice drink.

Pilar’s tamales are made with home-made free, all natural chicken, pork or fresh vegetable stocks.  They’re only $3.50, including a side of yummy pickled salad and house red salsa.  You can get a hearty, complete meal, which is enough for dinner and a snack later (and sometimes part of lunch the next day) for under $10.

Her sweet tamales are almost always gluten and dairy free.  My favorite (when I could eat it) is the black bean and cheese, which is the most beautiful chocolate shade of black-bean-laced masa filled with corn and just the right, light amount of melty cheese.

Some days I get to the market too late for tamales, but I happily “settle” for a generous side of casamiento and plantains, along with some fresh watermelon juice.

The first taste of the couple I toured last Saturday was plantains and watermelon juice and they happily sipped the cool juice for almost the whole tour.

Go to Pilar’s website for great descriptions of all the menu items, catering and lots more of information.

I’m so thankful for places like Pilar’s for helping me continue to be an inspired foodie.

Are our a foodie with food allergies?  Tell me about your favorite places to eat.  I’ll write about more of my favorites soon.

Can’t get enough asparagus!

Asparagus is one of those veggies I usually refuse to buy, cook and eat unless it’s in season.  I love the stuff as many ways as I can think to cook it.  And I just learned Michigan is the nation’s third largest asparagus grower, next to California and Washington.

I first discovered it this year on my birthday in late April.  I prepared it the way I usually do first–and the way that gets the most oohs and ahhs even though it’s really simple— tossing it with some good extra virgin olive oil, your favorite salt (basically anything but the stuff in a round package) and pepper and roasting it in a single layer in a 400 degree oven until tender—from 8 minutes for pencil-thin stalks to 12 for thick ones.

The asparagus should be tender, but not mushy.  Unless you like it mushy.

If you have the time/patience/ingredients, squeeze some lemon juice and grate a little lemon zest over the asparagus while it’s hot.  Or drizzle with balsamic vinegar. Or sherry vinegar.   Or top it with sautéed mushrooms and shallots.  Or better yet, toss the mushrooms and shallots with the asparagus, oil, salt and pepper and roast all of them together.  Let it all get slightly caramelized.

The first asparagus sighting of each season always surprises me; so does the last.  Just when I’m getting used to it back in my life, it’s gone again.  I’ve learned the season usually ends before I’m sick of it, so I try to have some everyday.  I know it’s going to be gone soon and there’s nothing I can do about it.

Here’s an asparagus recipe I developed for a cooking class I recently taught at a wedding shower.  I paired roasted asparagus with another favorite spring veggie—-beets.  

(Ok, I know hearts of palm don’t grown in Michigan—maybe not even in the U.S., but I love them and when I saw them at Trader Joe’s in a glass jar not a can,  I had to have them.  You can leave them out and/or replace them with your favorite flavors.  Just about any veggie works with this dressing–jicama, sunchokes, radishes.  Your choice.)

Please share your favorite asparagus story and/or recipe.

Roasted Beet and Asparagus Salad with Sesame Orange Dressing – Serves 4

1 bunch of asparagus (about a pound)

2-3 small beets

1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

3 cups red cabbage, sliced thinly like for cole slaw

1 3-4 stalks of hearts of palm, sliced about ½ thick

3 green onions, sliced

½ cup almonds, toasted in a 300º oven or dry skillet

Salt and pepper

  • Pre-heat over to 400º.
  • Wash and trim beets, put in an oven-proof dish or pan and roast for 45-60 minutes (depending on the size of the beets) until they are tender.  Remove from the oven and let cool until you can peel the beets.  Cut them into 1” pieces and set aside.
  • Wash and dry asparagus.  Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Put on a cookie sheet and roast about 5 minutes (depending on the thickness of the asparagus) until the asparagus is just barely tender.  Try not to overcook it.  Cut into 1” pieces.
  • Combine beets, asparagus, cabbage, hearts of palm and green onions in a bowl; add salt and pepper to taste.
  • Add half of the dressing.  Taste and add more dressing, salt and pepper to taste.  Garnish with toasted almonds.

Dressing

Juice and zest of ½ orange

Juice and zest of ½ lemon

½ Tablespoon honey

½ Tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

¼ cup sesame seeds, toasted in a dry skillet

Combine all ingredients well.

Spring Thaw

I’ve lived in Michigan long enough to know not to get too excited about a Spring thaw, but I can’t help myself.  Chirping birds woke me, the snow is melting and the sky is blue.  I couldn’t wait to get to Kerrytown to see what was happening at  the farmer’s market.

I’ve been using the same strategy at the market for 25 years.  I spend no more than10 minutes looking for a free parking space—yes, there is still free parking in Ann Arbor!  But, twice, maybe three times around the block and then I gladly pull out my quarters.   It’s not that I mind contributing to the city’s economy—showing off my city and hopefully stimulating the local economy is the primary mission of my company, Savor Ann Arbor.

I’m just thrilled to find a free spot in town.

Part of my parking success is that I go after noon to avoid the crowds.  I want to savor each stall, smell the herbs, talk with the vendors—and I don’t want anybody in my way.  I’ve been to farmer’s markets around the world, and around the area, but this one is my favorite.

It’s the perfect size for me, like Ann Arbor itself.  There are lots of choices and people who are passionate and proud of their products.  But, it’s small enough to cruise through in 10 minutes.  It gives me the opportunity to feed my family the way my parents fed us in small town Pennsylvania—-with wholesome food mostly grown by people within driving distance of our home.

I changed my cooking strategies in the last few years to focus on the abundance of local ingredients.  My meals for the week depend on my finds at the market.  I shop with a list at regular grocery stores for staples, but I go to the farmer’s market excited to create meals from what’s available and tasty looking.

My starting point at the market depends on my parking space.  No matter where I enter, though, my strategy is the same—-scope out the whole place first, then devise my purchase plan.  Sometimes I’ll go to a particular vendor first to secure a yearning or special ingredient for a recipe that weekend.  But, usually, I cover the whole market before I buy anything.

Today, I bought some eggs, talked to Mary Wessel Walker from Harvest Kitchen about her new venture and had some lunch.  I was excited to see the colorful bottles of Unity Vibration Kombucha at a table and noticed a new person (at least to me) selling home made sauces.  The bread corner was alive and dangerous for me in my current, gluten-free state, so I savored it from afar.  If I could, I’d try one new bread and/or pastry each week and then start all over again.   It always looks so good.

I’d like to hear about your farmer’s market strategies, rituals and experiences on this blog, the Inspired Foodie.

And I can’t wait for April to start my regular market tours on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Join me for a two-hour stroll through the market, with a few stops while we’re there, through the rest of Kerrytown and the Main Street area.  We’ll learn a little, share a little and savor a lot.

I also create custom tours around your interests and schedule.

Contact me for more info at savorannarbor.com.